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 | Cod. Pal. germ. 389 Thomasin von Zerclaere Der welsche Gast, Bayern (Regensburg?), 1256 An earlier manuscript (by 50 years) than Codex Manesse |
 | Cod. Pal. germ. 794 -[Ulrich] Boner- Edelstein 1410/1420 I love the stripes on the dresses in this one, so unusual. Also, its has several representations of the ruffle-edged veils that are seen in statuary. |
If I had to describe it in terms of resources that folks are already familiar with, its like the Dutch version of the Austrian RealOnline, or the French Joconde . Its got a nice section of descriptive words that you can use to search the collection.
Rijksbureau voor Kunsthistorische Documentatie
Chose RKD Images, and be sure to click on the British flag in the top left corner to change the labels to English.
To start your search, I'd recommend searching by "Period made" and then finding an image that is similar to what you are searching for, looking at its key word descriptions and then searching by those.
The ball gown I'm making for Costume College is from 1898, so I found a corset patent from that year, I chose
Patent number:611,116, 1898 which is an improvement on Patent number: 97418, 1869 the orginal patent for the "Thomson's Glove fitting Corset.
I've been working on the patterning and mock-up over the last week, and finally tried it on today. Its quite comfy and it gives great support to the diaphram!
( Pictures and commentary behind the cut )
Just today, I found pictures of one that had been for sale, that showed me that I need to adjust the lower edge, and that should make the lines look right.
I think I'll keep the busk length as is at 11.5 inches, any longer I think its going to start poking me when I sit down. Also, reading the Warner Brother's Corset catalog from 1898-9, the majority of their busks are in the 10.5-11.5 range.
EDT: After wearing it for a bit longer this afternoon, I decided that the hip shape is fine, but the upper edge needs to come up 1.5 inches in the front to combat spillage.
We have one vegetarian that has registered, so we do need at least one dish per course that they can eat.
Personally, I like the taste of the beans much more than the lentils.
From Rumpolt Vegetable Recipes
30. Take beans/ poach them in a water/ and pull the skins off
make them with a peabroth and good fresh butter/ also green
welltasting herbs/ that are chopped small/ let simmer therewith
and do not oversalt it/ so they will be good and welltasting.
I consulted with the experts on the Cooking Rumpolt Yahoo group as to which would be the proper type of bean and they recommended either Fava or Black Eyed Peas. I went with Black Eyed Peas.
Take 1/2 c black eyed peas and bring them to a boil for a minute or two until you see the skins start to losen. Remove from heat and drain in a colander, rinse with cold water. Rub beans between your hands and remove some of the skins.
Put back in the pot and add 1 1/2 c vegetable broth, 1/2 T butter and 1 t dried parsley.
Simmer for 30 mins or until beans are tender.
Notes: I like this dish, it certainly has potential. As this is just a sample recipe, I didn't make a lot. I fully suspect this will not be the finished recipe. The poaching doesn't seem to have made much of a difference, except to have perhaps removed some of the earthy flavor of the black eyed peas. I used parsley as a good tasting green herb, I wonder what else would be good to use?
125 Take lentils/ wash them fine clean/ and soak them. Take also a good beef-broth/ let simmer/ cut onion and a little garlic into it/ so that it comes nice and thick/ and when it is cooked/ so put green well-tasting herbs/ that have been chopped fine/ thereto/ and cooked bacon/ let it simmer therewith/ so it becomes good and tasty. You can also cook lentils without onion/ how one likes to eat it/ so it may be prepared.
1/2 c dried lentils, rinsed.
1 1/2 c vegetable broth
onion and garlic (I didn't really measure)
Simmer until lentils are done.
Add parsley.
Notes: Its just sort of a dish that makes me go "Eh." It probably needs the beef broth and the bacon to make it pop.
Rumpolt Salads
44.Take radish / and cut it small/ broad and thin/ poach it in
water/ cool it / season it with oil/ vinegar and salt. You may sprinkle it
with sugar or not.
Bring a pot of water to a boil. Slice the radishes thin. Poach radishes in boiling water for 2 mins. Remove and let cool.
Drizzle with a dressing made with oil and vinegar, with salt and sugar to taste.
Notes: I tested both the red skinned type radish and the white daikon type radish, I like the taste of the red skinned radish the best. The dressing needs work.
Cod. Pal. germ. 245 Hans Roller / Helene von Hanau-Münzenberg, Rezeptsammlungen, Amberg, um 1574
Contents
Front Cover
1r Meister Hans Roller, gemammt Deumlein, recipe collection
2r 935 medical recipes against various diseases
108r Countess Helene of Hanau-Münzenberg, recipe collection
109r 261 recipes for various diseases
157r 14 recipes for various diseases
160r 23 recipes for various diseases
167v 22 recipes to diseases of the breast
170V 16 recipes for healing
173v 3 recipes against sorcery
175r 76 recipes for various diseases
Rear Cover
Back
Edited to add:
I have got to learn how to read period hands! The University of Heidelberg has digitized about 45 pre-1600 medicinal recipe collections, all hand written.
For the Baronial Birthday event, I'm researching and preparing the recipes and menu primarily from Sabina Welserin's 1553 cookbook and some vegetable recipes out of Rumpolt. Mistress Kailyn Fitzwarin and help are cooking the feast, and I'll cooking the sauces and some of the desserts the week before.
This week, I've been working on the last few recipes for the menu. Yesterday, I made 89 To make a strawberry tart last night and brought it to Activities Night for people to sample it. It appears to be a hit, I certainly like it!
The recipe from Sabina Welserin's cookbook, 1553
Make a pastry shell and let it become firm in the tart pan. Afterwards take strawberries and lay them around on top as close together as possible, after that sweeten them especially well. Next let it bake a short while, pour Malavosia over it and let it bake a while, then it is ready.
The recipe is pretty straight forward, but my question is in regards to the pastry shell.
None of the pastry shell recipes (recipe # 128 and 61) that Sabina has written down has sugar in it. The one I made last night has 2 tablespoons sugar in it, the result is a yummy sweet crust. Other than that, my recipe is pretty much identical with flour, butter, water and one egg.
The reason I didn't use the recipe right out of Sabina is that I felt a sweeter pastry shell would enhance the flavor of the strawberries better, making for a better whole dish taste.
However, now I'm feeling conflicted. Should I make it without sugar? With sugar?
When it comes to cooking for a feast (to be served at large), is it more important to have it be yummy first and authentic second?
My gut instinct for a feast is for it to be as authentic as possible, but not to sacrifice the yumminess. In short, yummy first and authentic second, but I'd like to hear other's thoughts.
If I'm making too big of a deal over 2T of sugar, feel free to tell me that too!
- I found and secured a new site for Baronial Birthday. I think its better than the old site, and it should be an awesome day!
- I've been testing new recipes for the menu for BB, discovered an awesome new way to cook carrots the other night, I could have eaten the whole dish!
- Signed up to teach 3 classes at KWCS, all German all the way!
- I've been helping a new lady learn how to sew. She just brought over her new sewing machine today and learned how to sew a straight seam. I'm pretty happy with how fast she's picking things up and catching on. She's the second absolute beginner that I've taught here, and my first student is off and making her own clothes unsupervised. I'll have to move onto pattern drafting with her.
- Tomorrow night is "Basic sewing machine use and maintenance " at Activities Night. Should be a good time, as long as people bring their machines and participate.
- I've pre-reg'd Henry and I for Pennsic. What a crazy July/August its going to be! Mid July, we head up to Maine for a bit, and the August issue of YWU gets put together and published. Then I fly out to California for Costume College July 30-August 3rd. Fly back on a Monday, next day Henry and I take off for Pennsic, we'll probably get there on Wednesday, and we drive home on Saturday. The next weekend is the big every three year family reunion in Rhode Island, and I know Matt wants to go to that. He's hoping for a family vacation in Maine, sometime in late August...
I figure sometime in September I'll get a chance to breathe again!
- I've got to get sewing! There's the 1898 Ball Gown and day outfit for Costume College, and clothes for Pennsic, at the bare minimum.
I mocked up a corset based on a 1898 patent, now I just need to sew in boning cases so I can do a test lace and see how it fits.
I think that's everything, although I feel like I'm forgetting something...
I don't have much up right now, but there will be more later, including the German hats. :)
FashionsTimeless
For some reason I thought it would be a great idea to handsew the whole thing....
I already had a dress cut out from last Fall that was from a pattern that I knew would fit, standard T-front dress that I've made for the last 6 years with variations.
I'm actually quite bored with that style, and since I had just been prodding someone else to break out of their groove and try something new, I thought I should take my own advice.
I had already started to sew the dress together at this point, but fortunately, the style I chose to make was a based on the same fitted bodice technique as the t-front square neck dress, so I could just cut down the bodice that I already had cut out.
I've always wanted to make the dekollete style dress |
Here is another similar dress from Strigel's Sippenaltar aus Mindelheim, 1505, depicting one of Frundberg's daughters. I'm making my sleeves in this style for comfort in the heat |
 |  |
| From Dekolette dress |
Since this is a dress for Summer, I'm making it out of a red fustian I've had for several years. I'm also trying the two part sleeves that are seen in the second picture. I figure if I get too hot, I can always take them off.
Back to sewing, I've got the sleeves, hem and fastenings to go. Interestingly enough, its taking me about the same length of time to finish the dress, hand sewing everything, as it normally does to sew it by machine. (Not the individual seams mind you, I'm talking the number of days working on the dress.)
As he is progressing towards a more period appearance, he wanted something documentable, that he could wear without needing to explain anything, yet he wanted the German flash and over-the-top appearance that he sees on the German guilds in California. He also wanted to be able to wear it over armor and without.
Challenges of the commission:
- He wanted to able to wear it over armor and without, I wanted it to look great either way. Armor changes a person's measurements considerably in the shoulders, which the garment hangs off of. If the shoulders weren't made right/supported correctly by the tailoring layers, the garment would look slack.
- The armor he wanted to wear it over wasn't finished yet!
- He was losing weight during the whole process
- No fittings in person, he lives in California and I live in Virginia, 3000 miles away.
I asked him if I could keep a public diary of the project as I went along and he thought it would be a great idea.
I intend to do a full write up on my website at some point, but as I'm in the middle of revising it, I decided to put it up on Picassa for now.
Here is the construction diary, with the period images and extant garment that I used to base my design on.
 |
| Red & Black Waffenrock Construction Diary |
( remainder behind the cut )
Here are several gowns that I'm just in love with, I'm thinking of combining the lines in the two, the skirt from the one on the left (Elizabeth Drexel, 1905) and the surplice bodice from the center one (Suzanne Hudelo about 1899-1900). The one on the right (Ms. Unknown) is a colored photo that I think shows the design of the waist of the orange dress a bit better. Click on the pictures to see them larger.
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This is the style that my SIL had talked me into. It just doesn't have quite the same appeal.
The fabric is this shimmery shot sunset orange silk gauze. The pale yellow silk on the left corner would be the underlining for it.
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I was hungry for spinach at lunch today, but I wanted it hot not cold and I wanted it fast, so I made this up based on the herb tart out of Sabina Welserin's cookbook. It took less that 5 mins from start to eat.
In a microwavable bowl, dump frozen chopped spinach and microwave for 2 mins.
Take out and stir.
Add
a dash of salt
a dash of pepper
a dab of butter or olive oil
a pinch of currants or raisins
a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese
a drizzle of rice wine vinegar
Mix well. Adjust ingredients to personal taste. Eat.
Its warm, satisfying and fast.
- Mood:
chipper
The headdress in the back is the super horseshoe Steuchlein, its 6" off the top of my head. The one I wore at the event was only 4" high off my head, still plenty big!
The BSB has these two copies of "Der Ritter vom Turn" by Geoffroy de la Tour Landry, translated by Marquard vom Stein, illustrated by Albrecht Durer.
One printed in Basel in 1493, the other in Augsburg in 1495. The Basel copy is the cleaner, nicer condition copy.
Basel, 1493 [BSB-Ink L-60 - GW M17154]
Augsburg 1495 [BSB-Ink L-61 - GW M17149]
From a clothing and material culture standpoint there are lots of great illustrations of clothing and headwear for both sexes in this book, here are just some of the highlights.
Ladies at table This is a great illustration of the various types of headdresses that could be worn in the same era. From left to right, Spangle/golden haube, Schleier, Steuchlein and Zopfe.
Mass scene with the women in church cloaks and sturz or bundlein. Different view, nice rosaries
Woman combing hair in front of mirror She's wearing a front lacing kirtle with her wide smock sleeves pushed up on arms. Her overdress is draped over a rod above her head. There's a belt and pouch hanging out of the chest in front of her, and a haube inside as well. I like the chair with the nice comfy cushion in the background.
Treatment of a wound on the leg. Woman in bed with long sleeved smock/dress
Back view of dresses and headdreses
Woman in short sleeved smock
Further reading
Free article at Ingenta,Framing Lives: The Narratives of Behaviour in Der Ritter vom Turm, A.Simon,Daphnis - Zeitschrift für Mittlere Deutsche Literatur, Volume 28, Number 1, 1999 , pp. 35-59(25)
English text
Book of the Knight of La Tour-Landry : compiled for the instruction of his daughters : translated from the original French into English in the reign of Henry VI
Times table, circa 1523
Measuring stick or 5's table?
Explaining how to convert fractions to the same base number to be able to subract and add.
Distillery book from 1500.
Brunschwig, Hieronymus: Hie anfahen ist das Buch genant Liber de arte distillandi, von der Künst der Distillierung, Straßburg, 1500.05.08 [BSB-Ink B-932 - GW 5595]
Beginning of the equipment section
Beginning of Recipe section
Another distillery book, from 1545
Ryff, Walther Hermann: Das new groß Distillierbuch, Frankfurt, 1545 [VD16 R 3978]
A 7 pot still station
Different pot shapes
Amazing to see how much the equipment progressed in 45 years between the 1500 book and this one!
Two books, one printed in Augsburg in 1490 and one in Ulm in 1498, with identical woodcuts. They are Calendars (with daily saints), Almanacs and Astrology books. Each month has the calendar of days, the saints for each day, and a set of vignettes of activities for each month.
This one is in b/w, Kalender, iatromathematisches Hausbuch, Augsburg 1490.11.22. [BSB-Ink K-6 - GW M16025]
This one is in color Kalender, Iatromathematisches Hausbuch, Ulm, 1498 [BSB-Ink K-9 - GW M16032]
January: Sitting at table
February: Warming the feet and hands in front of the fire, with sausages hanging over a rod to dry
August: Woman cutting wheat with a sickle
The start of the astrology section, with a couple of interesting instruments, pg 57, pg 58
The parts of the body governed by each sign
Treatments for various conditions, Melencholia the picture looks like depression to me
Ryff, Walther Hermann: Frawen Rosengarten, Von ... gebrechen der Mütter und Kinder ..., Frankfurt, 1545 [VD16 R 3901]
The title page of this book argues that stencils or separate blocks were in use for book illustrations, and that sometimes they slipped!
Another copy of 'Rosengarten', but done in full color, very nicely too. Front page has a different scene than the one above, but still the scene after the baby is born with the mother in recovery.
Rößlin, Eucharius: Der schwangerenn Frawen und Hebammen Rosengarten, Augspurg, 1530 [VD16 R 2856]
Birthing room scene with the mother on the birthing chair
Birthing chair
1528 version of 'Rosengarten', appears to be the same as 1530 version but with b/w plates not colored
Rößlin, Eucharius: Der Schwanngeren frawen und Hebammen Rosegarten, Augspurg, 1528 [VD16 ZV 16565]
Rueff, Jakob / Amman, Jost: Hebammenbuch, Daraus man alle Heimligkeit deß Weiblichen Geschlechts erlehrnen, welcherley gestalt der Mensch in Mutter Leib empfangen, zunimpt und geboren wirdt, auch wie man allerley Kranckheit, die sich le ichtlich mit den Kindbetterin zutragen, mit köstlicher Artzeney vorkommen unnd helffen könne, Franckfurt am Meyn 1600
Rough translation "Complete Doctor's guide to women's reproductive health, childbirth, issues and every Doctor should have this book"
In the birthing room
Birthing chair
Internal female anatomy
Pregnant woman and a servant or the midwife
Surgical instruments
The mother in recovery
Schöffel, Matthäus: Ain underrichtung der Kinderzucht für die jungen Knaben unnd Maidlein, wie sich die erstlich in der Forcht Gottes ... halten, bitten und beten sollen, Dillingen, 1553 [VD16 S 3344]
A child rearing manual for young boys and girls
Osiander, Andreas (der Ältere): Catechismus oder Kinderpredig, Nürnberg, 1557 [VD16 O 1060]
Children's Catechisms
Wickram, Jörg: Kurtzweil, Straßburg 1550 [VD16 W 2403]
Whoever illustrated this book had the oddest sense of humor. Plenty of extremely humourous anthromorphic illustrations, some of them make me laugh and laugh. Lots of period satire, some of which is still understandable today.
Plenty of good clear drawings of musical instruments that we often don't get a good look at: pipe organs, lutes, drums and pipes.
BiblioOdyssey covered this back in September
Geiler von Kaysersberg, Johannes: Der bilger mit seinen eygenschafften, auch figuren, (The characteristics of a pilgrim, with figures )
[Augsburg] [14]94 [BSB-Ink G-59 - GW 10587]
A Some really great pictures in this one, especially if you are into pilgramages or business!
Pg. 23 A hat seller, where the pilgrim buys his pilgrim hat. Also you can clearly see that he's got his hosen rolled down around his knees.
Dancing couples and the the Pilgrim
Eating at an inn on the road
Kalender, Iatromathematisches Hausbuch, Augsburg 1487.10.09. [BSB-Ink K-5 - GW M16021]
A book of the seasons, calendar and astrology calendar, with nice colored woodcuts, showing 1480's fashions and interiors.
A friend of the Autocrat was visiting from Texas and she also has Celiac disease, just like Henry and I. So I was asked if I could bring some extra lunch for her, which I was more than happy to do since she hasn't had a decent baked good since her diagnosis!
So, I brought a full table of food, and fed a great many more than three. The site was Kosher, so it required a bit of thinking on my part so I didn't accidentally mix dairy and meat in the same dish or on the same serving plate. (Butter counts as dairy, thank goodness for olive oil!)
The spread
- Baked chicken breast, tossed in salt, pepper, fresh rosemary and olive oil, based on a recipe from Sabina Welserin.
- Sauce for game and small birds (Sabina Welserin #8, apples, butter, good white wine, saffron, cinnamon, ginger)
- Spinach tart (herb tart from Sabina Welserin)
- Soft pretzels, gluten-free with mustard
- Butter kaase cheese
- Cinnamon Tart, Sabina Welserin #132
- Mixed nuts, chocolate and marzipan
I made the pretzels yesterday morning, so they were hot and fresh when we got to the event. Henry and I ate our share in the car on the way because they smelled so good!
Everything was a hit and I had almost nothing left over. :)
The lady from Texas was so thrilled to have real baked goods that didn't taste like they were gluten-free. It was such a delight to be able to share some of the joy of food to a fellow Celiac. Having been on this diet for almost 9 years it was very wonderful to be able to share some cooking tips and cookbook names with her. She's been on the diet for 3 years, but has so far had no luck baking with the special flours.
Henry ran around with the other kids and enjoyed himself. He wore his new bell baldric and had a great time making the bells ring, it certainly made keeping track of him a lot easier!
I do need to make him a new waffenrock for Ymir though, between the skirt being too short and stains, its time for a new one. Thankfully they don't take long to make.
In the middle of the day we came home for short naps and went back for court. I stepped up as Baronial MOAS (Minister of Arts & Sciences), a job I am really looking forward to doing. :)
Then it was time for cleanup and going home. Bedtime came early, and a good nights sleep was had by all.
Now I just need to clean the kitchen and do the dishes, it looks like a cooking whirlwind hit it.
- Mood: cheerful
Corsets and Close-Fitting Patterns
BY MARY BROOKS PICKEN
WOMAN'S INSTITUTE
of DOMESTIC ARTS & SCIENCES, INC.
SCRANTON, PA.
1920
http://haabet.dk/CorsetCloseFitting/ind
And
Abiti Antichi
This 1891 Black and yellow corset has got to be the most beautiful piece of underwear I've ever seen!
