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Post Costume College shopping

 Home from Costume College and I am filled with ideas for all the costumes that I want to make this next year. 30's -50's day wear, a Teens dress, and of course a Gala Ball gown. I need to post an event recap, but that will have to happen later.

I promissed folks that I'd post my jewelry crack seller links, so here they are!
Here's the link to the seller, lots of super lovely jewelry and a few pieces in the same style as my necklace but in different colors.  http://stores.ebay.com/jwellmart

Other places I looked at, that had similarly styled pieces,

So I've been shopping on Utsav, and oh! OH! I'm sorry, but there are just too many Sarees!

These four are currently rocking my world, the left two are the same design but different colors (white shows the pallau design the best), the black I could see as an asymettrical wrap gown from 1908-09. Not sure about the saree to the far right, maybe Teens? Its gorgeous and deserves to be something fab.
If you want to peruse those I've found so far, you can check out my Utsav wishlist, there's only $8000 dollars worth of Sarees on there!
pretty pictures behind a cutCollapse )

German Writs and Proclaimations

I know its been a while since I posted a research post,  but this week I got an email asking for information or links to German or Swiss land grants, writs, etc. and I thought that should post it here in case other people were in search of the same thing!

Original Documents:
The Amorial image from the Grant of arms to Hans, Sebastian and Georg von Aachen.

Deed to Daniel Braumann, Incipit: Wir Burgermeister Schoffen und Rath der Statt Francffurt

Deed by Peter Semler and Katherena Offenbach, with autograph subscription by the latter

Tax Proclamation

Deed by Clas Stritter of Gemunde, transferring property to Hanns Haernig of Gemunde

Formular Books
Here are some texts on the topics, first up are two formular books, which give the proper format for various types of letters and documents.

Formular allerlei Schrifften, Instrumenten, und Brieffe, So in hohen Cantzleyen der Keyser, Fürsten und Herren Höfe, Auch anderer Stände und Stätt, Schreibereyen und Consistorien gefertigt und gestellet werden, Zu sampt den gebür und gewönlichen Titel Formen, Einem jeden seiner Geburt, Ampts, Stadt, und wesens, rechtmessig Titel, Ehrwort und Ehrerbietung, zustellen und zugeben ..., Franckfurt am Meyn 1575 [VD16 F 1885]

A scribal formula book, just in case you ever wanted to write a formal letter to a Nurnberg Burgher, you could look up the proper form of address for them.
The opening pages has a nice picture of a scribal shop with scribes at work at their desks.

Fruck, Ludwig: Rhetoric und Teutsch Formular in allen Gerichts Händlen, Franckfurt a. M. 1530 [VD16 F 3149]

A forumla book for notaries and scribes, Frankfurt am Main, 1530. The frontispiece has a really great little picture of various scribal tools, including a pen case and inkwell, pens and a pen knife, ruler, string, scissors, packets of something and what looks like a large toothed comb (perhaps used for making lines on paper?), not really sure what the various lumps and other things are.

Scribal Pattern Books
Here are several scribal pattern books for help with the proper scripts to use.

Scribal pattern book of Gregorius Bock, MS 439. Swabia, ca. 1510-1517
Go here: http://beinecke.library.yale.edu/digitallibrary/ Search for MS 439, chose Scribal pattern book. There is, unfortunately, no direct link to the manuscript

Here is the descriptive catalog entry for the manuscript. This includes which scripts are used on which pages, this information is not included in the manuscript. The scripts run from basic book hands, bastards, decorative capitals, color work, its really quite inspiring!

Late Gothic Pattern Book, more cool calligraphy and illumination sample book Urach um 1494 Very, very pretty!

Libro di M. Giovambattista Palatino cittadino romano : nelqual s'insegna à scriuer ogni sorte lettera, antica & moderna, di qualun que natione, con le sue regole, & misure, & essempi : et con vn breve et vtil discorso de le cifre (1550)
An Italian book from 1545, with a lovely selection of hands, the  German hands are on p. 63.

Feb. 21st, 2011

A question came up on the GermanRen list about bead work and spangles, and I'm posting my answer here as well.

Do you mean, there are some dresses with beads, and other dresses with spangles, are there some dresses with both?
Good question...

Cranach's portrait of Anna Cuspinian has spangles, (flinden)
on the bottom of her brustfleck, which looks to be cloth of gold with silk embroidery. Click through to the large image to see the detail
This lady, a donor at the bottom of a devotional painting, RealOnline 001154, has tons of spangles on her headdress, but no pearls.
Cranach's portrait of this lady has tons of pearls, but can't tell about the spangles, although there does look to be gold thread outlining some of the pearl clusters

There are both pearls and spangles in this necklace from Hungary Choker necklace, gold plated over silver and pearl Halskrause, Bild: 008671 Halskrause des Matthias Corvinus(?) 1500 ; 1550 ;

Pre-1500, I've found a couple of exant examples of beadwork (not pearls) combined with spangles
Bordüre 1401/1500?, Wienhausen, Kloster Wienhausen — Aufnahme-Nr. LAC 7.091/6
Bordüre 1401/1500?, Wienhausen, Kloster Wienhausen — Aufnahme-Nr. LAC 7.091/5
Bordüre 1401/1500?, Wienhausen, Kloster Wienhausen — Aufnahme-Nr. LAC 7.091/4

Post 1600, there are a few examples of spangles and gold work with pearls
This hunters pouch from early 1600's has beads and a few spangles, this one, also from the early 1600's, has gold work and beads
These Pantoffeln, velvet house shoes, 1600-1620 are embroidered with silver and have gold spangles

These were the examples I was able to find, and they don't really settle the question in my mind. Gold work with pearls and spangles seems like a logical thing to do,  just not sure if no examples survive, or they would have thought that it was overkill and tasteless, or if there was a sumptuary law against it. 

And a couple examples of appliquéd heraldic emblems that are just too cool not to post as well

Heraldische Stickerei: Feuerstrahl und Feuerstein mit Funken, Schweiz?, 1401/1500, Bern, Bernisches Historisches Museum — Aufnahme-Nr. C 655.142;; (color);

Heroldsrock, 1501/1600, München, Bayerisches Nationalmuseum — Aufnahme-Nr. 114.791;

Someplace between Shock and Joy...

 I'm likely to be in shock for a while, but I've been given a Writ today asking me to sit vigil for the Order of the Laurel on Feb 26th, at A Day in the Middle East

I keep looking at the beautiful piece of paper and thinking, "Wait, it has my name on it... that can't be right, can it?"

En La Espana Medieval

 I'm presuming that my Spanish affectionado friends already KNOW about this publication, but just in case....

EN LA ESPAñA MEDIEVAL - a medieval history magazine devoted to Spain, which also happens to have most of its articles online for free.

This one looked especially good from 2009's issue

Mujeres de mercaderes, Mujeres Mercaderes. Testimonios de iniciativas femeninas en el ámbito comercial a finales del siglo XV - Women of Merchants and Merchant Women. Evidence of Women’s Commercial Initiatives at the end of the Fifteenth Century

Click on the tab Por Titulio at the top to see the articles of all the past issues.
{Edited to fix link rot, July 10, 2012}
If you were ever curious about what styles were worn at the Saxon court before the "Princess dress" came into fashion, (which might give clues as to the construction) well now we've got some more pieces in the puzzle.

Lucas Cranach painted a book of the people at the Saxon Court, some of them in quite informal poses and appearing to be in the middle of conversations. Each person depicted has their name, a short verse and their coat of arms down below, some have the coat of arms of the city that they are from or have the name of their town in the rhyme above their heads.

Das Sächsische Stammbuch - Mscr.Dresd.R.3 - The Saxon Pedigree
A collection of portraits of Saxon princes, with rhyming text, from the period
1500 - 1546

This one, is a gown in a transitional style, part Master of the housebook dress with the neck chains and part Saxon court style with the cutout front, brustuch and lacings. 

This picture of two women,  makes me wonder if we're seeing the same style of dress, but the lady on the left is pregnant, and the lady on the left isn't. But either way, you've got to love the green Zopfe and the red and gold striped Haube on the other.

Cranach did us all a favor by painting most of the portraits in 3/4 view,  and some of them from the back,  and side, (this is crucial to understanding how the dress might be constructed, and how it should fit from all angles). 

There are also women in multi-parti dress, which may be heraldic dress, 108, 149, 158.

In the back, there are flip pages, where first you see the person as an adult, then you open the flip, and you see them as a child.   And then there are these three young ladies, in beautiful silk gowns that look to be pink/blue shot silk taffeta.

There are plenty of other lovely pictures (200+ total), including lots of men's clothes too, these were just the ones that caught my eye tonight.

Drindl tutorial

I ran across this drindl dress diary, and I found it fascinating that she uses a "hansel" or a piece of checkered fabric to space her pleats on the skirt and apron. Also, braiding the ends of the cartridge pleat threads and leaving wide seam allowances in the bodice make this a piece of clothing that can be easily altered in the future.

A nice example of clothing, not costume

Pennsic Meme

1.. Where are you camping?
Barony of Marinus (E05 I think, don't quote me on it)

2. When are you arriving?
Monday August 2nd, leaving Thursday the 12th.

3. What cool stuff are you doing?
Shopping, Socializing, Hanging out at the playground with Henry, Sewing, Cooking, etc.  I might make it to a few classes, and I'd like to hangout at Artisan's row and work on a few headdresses, but we'll see how things work out.

The 1503 German ball is definitely on my list of things to go to, and I foresee lots of exploratory walks with Henry around the grounds. Maybe we'll watch a battle or two.  

4. What's your SCA name?
Lady Sophia Kress

16th c Vestments

Last night I spent some quality time with Textile Conservation and Research along with MOL's Textiles and Clothing.
It occurred to me that probably the place to look for extant metal thread woven bands from the 16th c would be on church vestments.

Here are a couple I found at the Met in NYC, which has an awesome zoom feature that the V&A unfortunately does not have.

A 16th c Vestment with what looks to be a tablet woven band, woven similarly to the Spanish style trim bands used on clothing, but with metal thread over the top of the lower twists. I love how the metal thread has worn away so you can see the internal structure of the band as well as the fine yellow silk that acts as the catch warp for the metal thread weft.
Use the Zoom feature to get in close, and you can even see the twist direction of the fine silk.
Vestment (Chasuble), 16th century, Italian,Met NYC 2009.300.2950

I've done some work on these types of tabletwoven bands in the past, but not with metal threads brocaded over the top, interesting idea but not the look I'm going for.

Another 16th c Chasuble, Italian, Met NYC 2009.300.2953

A weft patterened band, in checks. detail of trim

Its hard to tell if its tablet weaving or done on a band loom, although I don't see the typical spiral structure of tablet weaving in the yellow warp threads that catch the metal weft.

Its hard to tell if the diamond patterned background in this embroidered piece is woven and the embroidery applied as a slip, or if its embroidered and made to look woven.
If its woven, its a warp patterned piece with a metallic thread warp and silk weft, with the non-patterned sections done in a twill (2-1?)

A Cope, 4th quarter 15th c, Italian,  Met NYC 2009.300.3409
Bobbin lace, and a lovely woven fringe, zoom in to see Detail of edge

Loom structure, not tablet woven. I love how the fringe threads are carried over from section to section.


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