More fun stuff from BSB
Paul Mair's De Arte Athletica, Volume I and II, Augsburg middle of the 16th century, BSB Cod.icon. 393 1 and 2
Volume 1: http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb 00006570.html
Volume 2: http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb 00007894.html
This book is in FULL color and has some of the most beautiful men's clothes I've ever seen! Here's an example from Vol 1
Hans Burgkmair: Turnierbuch - Copy of the Original of Hans Burgkmair the Elder. - BSB Cod.icon. 403, Augsburg 1540
http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb 00015125.html
Tourney book of Hans Burgkmair, lots of great horse barding, armour, and some clothes.
Turnierbuch. Ritterspiele gehalten von Kaiser Friedrich III. und Kaiser Maximilian I. in den Jahren 1489 - 1511 - BSB Cod.icon. 398
Augsburg ? 1550
http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb 00002178.html
Plates showing matches from tourney's in 1497, 1498, 1491 and 1511
Schriber, Stephan: Spätgotisches Musterbuch des Stephan Schriber - BSB Cod.icon. 420
Urach um 1494
http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb 00019746.html
Late Gothic Pattern Book, more cool calligraphy and illumination sample book.
Kleinodienbuch der Herzogin Anna von Bayern - BSB Cod.icon. 429
München 1552 - 1555
http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb 00006598.html
Jewelry catalog book of Herzogin Anna of Bavaria painted by Hans Mielich. Here's just a sample
Paul Mair's De Arte Athletica, Volume I and II, Augsburg middle of the 16th century, BSB Cod.icon. 393 1 and 2
Volume 1: http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb
Volume 2: http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb
This book is in FULL color and has some of the most beautiful men's clothes I've ever seen! Here's an example from Vol 1
Hans Burgkmair: Turnierbuch - Copy of the Original of Hans Burgkmair the Elder. - BSB Cod.icon. 403, Augsburg 1540
http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb
Tourney book of Hans Burgkmair, lots of great horse barding, armour, and some clothes.
Turnierbuch. Ritterspiele gehalten von Kaiser Friedrich III. und Kaiser Maximilian I. in den Jahren 1489 - 1511 - BSB Cod.icon. 398
Augsburg ? 1550
http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb
Plates showing matches from tourney's in 1497, 1498, 1491 and 1511
Schriber, Stephan: Spätgotisches Musterbuch des Stephan Schriber - BSB Cod.icon. 420
Urach um 1494
http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb
Late Gothic Pattern Book, more cool calligraphy and illumination sample book.
Kleinodienbuch der Herzogin Anna von Bayern - BSB Cod.icon. 429
München 1552 - 1555
http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Band_bsb
Jewelry catalog book of Herzogin Anna of Bavaria painted by Hans Mielich. Here's just a sample
- Mood:
artistic
Today was not really the best day here, there was lots of failure on several fronts, but its always nice when the day ends on a good note.
First off, someone has posted really nice pictures of Jost Amman's Tourney picture from 1561 on Wikimedia.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Categ ory:Gesellen-Stechen_1561
Then the BSB has put up Talhoffer's Fechtbuch in color,
Thalhofer, Hans: Fechtbuch von 1467 - BSB Cod.icon. 394 a, [S.l.] Schwaben 1467
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0002/bsb000 20451/images/
Then to cap the day!
Zeugbuch Kaiser Maximilians I. - BSB Cod.icon. 222, Innsbruck um 1502
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0002/bsb000 20956/images/
The Zeugbuch or Thing Book, of Kaiser Maximilian I, is a beautiful full color illustration of his war machine in action. All the war equipment you could ever ask for, pages upon pages of cannon, with the occasional soldier thrown in for spice.
It is really cool in that it shows in exacting detail how the cannons are mounted on the carts, how they are transported.
Interesting buckets and bags
Pikeman, and pike parts
Not sure of this weapon, but I love the view of the hat on the ground
Smaller size guns, with the gunners
Small size cannons, with gunners, love the Rock on the guy on the left
Rough pen sketch of two soldiers
The calligraphy and borders are really nice too throughout the entire book, especially the decorative pen work capitals towards the back, really beautiful stuff!
First off, someone has posted really nice pictures of Jost Amman's Tourney picture from 1561 on Wikimedia.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Categ
Then the BSB has put up Talhoffer's Fechtbuch in color,
Thalhofer, Hans: Fechtbuch von 1467 - BSB Cod.icon. 394 a, [S.l.] Schwaben 1467
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0002/bsb000
Then to cap the day!
Zeugbuch Kaiser Maximilians I. - BSB Cod.icon. 222, Innsbruck um 1502
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0002/bsb000
The Zeugbuch or Thing Book, of Kaiser Maximilian I, is a beautiful full color illustration of his war machine in action. All the war equipment you could ever ask for, pages upon pages of cannon, with the occasional soldier thrown in for spice.
It is really cool in that it shows in exacting detail how the cannons are mounted on the carts, how they are transported.
Interesting buckets and bags
Pikeman, and pike parts
Not sure of this weapon, but I love the view of the hat on the ground
Smaller size guns, with the gunners
Small size cannons, with gunners, love the Rock on the guy on the left
Rough pen sketch of two soldiers
The calligraphy and borders are really nice too throughout the entire book, especially the decorative pen work capitals towards the back, really beautiful stuff!
- Mood:
awake
I love this little scene of young men or boys setting up camp
http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/se rver/images/7002899.JPG
Its a detail image from this picture
Stammbaum der Babenberger
Leopold der Milde
Dieses Bild: 000343
Kunstwerk: Temperamalerei-Holz ; Tafelbild ; Part Hans ; Niederösterreich
Dokumentation: 1489 ; 1492 ; Klosterneuburg ; Österreich ; Niederösterreich ; Stiftsgalerie
Anmerkungen: Klosterneuburg
Details/Gesamtaufnahme:
http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/se rver/images/7000246.JPG
( More behind the cut, including some great seam lines on doublets )
http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/se
Its a detail image from this picture
Stammbaum der Babenberger
Leopold der Milde
Dieses Bild: 000343
Kunstwerk: Temperamalerei-Holz ; Tafelbild ; Part Hans ; Niederösterreich
Dokumentation: 1489 ; 1492 ; Klosterneuburg ; Österreich ; Niederösterreich ; Stiftsgalerie
Anmerkungen: Klosterneuburg
Details/Gesamtaufnahme:
http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/se
( More behind the cut, including some great seam lines on doublets )
I'm in the middle of pulling together the pictures to teach a class on Saturday, and of course I'd find something that I wasn't looking for. {Very big grin}
In this drawing of Caspar Strum by Durer, 1520, Caspar is wearing what looks to be a square necked rock (we only have his head and shoulders to go by), but Durer has captured the small detail of the thread marks that come through the garment when the fastener was sewn onto the garment. Look closely at the right hand corner of the neckline square, also check out the cool detail of the point that fastens his shirt.
By the stitch marks, I'm guessing that its an alternating hook and bar closure.
Of course his Burgher style Schlappe is way cool too!
In this drawing of Caspar Strum by Durer, 1520, Caspar is wearing what looks to be a square necked rock (we only have his head and shoulders to go by), but Durer has captured the small detail of the thread marks that come through the garment when the fastener was sewn onto the garment. Look closely at the right hand corner of the neckline square, also check out the cool detail of the point that fastens his shirt.
By the stitch marks, I'm guessing that its an alternating hook and bar closure.
Of course his Burgher style Schlappe is way cool too!
- Mood:
chipper
After doing some research, it has become clear to me that while Schaube were worn with Rock, it cannot yet be documented that the Mantels of the Moritz von Sachsen type were. At this time it is possible to document that the Mantels were worn with Wams and Hose, but not with Rock.
This is actually quite explainable since the Wams and Hose were the clothes of action, and of fighting, of fashionable young men. Rocks seem to have been more for formal, business or stately occasions, and worn by older men. The mantel of Moritz von Sachsen, along with his wams and hosen, were of a Spanish influenced style, and more on the cutting edge of fashion. Therefore, it makes logical sense that the mantel and the rock would not be found together.
( Links to the documentation )
This is actually quite explainable since the Wams and Hose were the clothes of action, and of fighting, of fashionable young men. Rocks seem to have been more for formal, business or stately occasions, and worn by older men. The mantel of Moritz von Sachsen, along with his wams and hosen, were of a Spanish influenced style, and more on the cutting edge of fashion. Therefore, it makes logical sense that the mantel and the rock would not be found together.
( Links to the documentation )
- Mood:
calm
Topic of this post is to look at the different types of sleeves that Rocks can have. For this study, I've chosen to look at Hofkleiderbuch (Abbildung und Beschreibung der Hof-Livreen) des Herzogs Wilhelm IV. und Albrecht V. 1508-1551 - BSB Cgm 1951, München 16. Jh
http://nbn-resolving.de/urn/resolve r.pl?urn=urn:nbn:de:bvb:12-bsb00016005-6
The Puff Topped Sleeve with fitted forearm
( Read more... )
Based on the first image showing the rock undone and how the similar style sleeves on the other rocks are behaving, I believe that this style of sleeve is not a narrow sleeve underneath with the puff applied on top, but the puff part is unstructured, meaning it is larger and longer, and can be pushed up by the narrower forearm part.
Other Sleeve Types
( More sleeves )
Back View of a Rock
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb000 16005/images/index.html?seite=160
http://nbn-resolving.de/urn/resolve
The Puff Topped Sleeve with fitted forearm
( Read more... )
Based on the first image showing the rock undone and how the similar style sleeves on the other rocks are behaving, I believe that this style of sleeve is not a narrow sleeve underneath with the puff applied on top, but the puff part is unstructured, meaning it is larger and longer, and can be pushed up by the narrower forearm part.
Other Sleeve Types
( More sleeves )
Back View of a Rock
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb000
- Mood:
busy
Earlier this week, I posted this picture of a man in a yellow rock with something thrown over one shoulder.
Since then I've been looking for other images that show Rocks that have another garment over them.
I've found several both in portraits and in allegorical paintings.
What specifically they are called, either Schuabe or Hueske, I am still trying to determine this. I think that if its fur lined its a Schaube, if its fabric lined its a Husecke. However, until I get it sorted out, I'm using the term Schaube for either one lined in fur or fabric.
From Das Schwarzsche Trachtenbuch I + II on Bildindex,
( Good Ol' Matthias Schwarz, Augsburg Burgher )
( Color pictures from RealOnline )
Since then I've been looking for other images that show Rocks that have another garment over them.
I've found several both in portraits and in allegorical paintings.
What specifically they are called, either Schuabe or Hueske, I am still trying to determine this. I think that if its fur lined its a Schaube, if its fabric lined its a Husecke. However, until I get it sorted out, I'm using the term Schaube for either one lined in fur or fabric.
From Das Schwarzsche Trachtenbuch I + II on Bildindex,
( Good Ol' Matthias Schwarz, Augsburg Burgher )
( Color pictures from RealOnline )
- Mood:
busy
Geißelung Christi
Dieses Bild: 000180
Kunstwerk: Temperamalerei-Holz ; Einrichtung sakral ; Flügelaltar ; Salzburg ; Mt:27:001-031 , Mk:15:001-020 , Jo:19:001-008
Dokumentation: 1515 ; 1520 ; Gebertsham ; Österreich ; Oberösterreich ; Kreuzkirche
Anmerkungen: Gebertsham
http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/se rver/images/3000180.JPG
Interesting view of how the top part of this slashed hosen fastens. Looks like it spiral laces above the codpiece?
Wish this was in color!
Dieses Bild: 000180
Kunstwerk: Temperamalerei-Holz ; Einrichtung sakral ; Flügelaltar ; Salzburg ; Mt:27:001-031 , Mk:15:001-020 , Jo:19:001-008
Dokumentation: 1515 ; 1520 ; Gebertsham ; Österreich ; Oberösterreich ; Kreuzkirche
Anmerkungen: Gebertsham
http://tarvos.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/se
Interesting view of how the top part of this slashed hosen fastens. Looks like it spiral laces above the codpiece?
Wish this was in color!
These got posted a while back on the GermanRenCostume list by Katherine Barich, but I forgot to post them here for those who don't read that list
Two really nice clothing books, and heraldry too, of the Bavarian Court
Hofkleiderbuch (Abbildung und Beschreibung der Hof-Livreen) des Herzogs Wilhelm IV. und Albrecht V. 1508-1551 - BSB Cgm 1951, München 16. Jh.
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb000 16005/images/
Hofkleiderbuch (Abbildung und Beschreibung der Hof-Livreen) des Herzogs Wilhelm IV. und Albrecht V. 1508-1551. Wappen mit Reimsprüchen des Holland. Abbildungen bayerischer Regenten - BSB Cgm 1952, München 16. Jh.
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb000 16900/images/index.html
Heraldry book, 18th century copy of the 1560 original. Its got the shield, with the crest and the appropriate flag, so you can see how the shield design would translate to a fabric design.
Wappenbuch des churbayrischen Adels (Copie eines Originals von 1560), Band 1 - BSB Cgm 1508,
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/bsb0000 2248/images/index.html
Teilnachlass von Philipp Apian (z.T. lateinisch) (1554-ca.1585), Ortsansichten, Alpenpanoramen, Holzschnitte - BSB Cgm 5379(3, [S.l.] Bayern 1554 - ca. 1585
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/bsb0000 2074/images/
And I'm sure that someone has a music geek friend who would love this
Songs of the Master school of Colmarer, from 1591, words and music notation to go with it!
Lieder der Colmarer Meisterschule - BSB Cgm 4999, [S.l.] 1591
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/bsb0000 4911/images/
I found the last two via this listing of all the Handschriften by century
Two really nice clothing books, and heraldry too, of the Bavarian Court
Hofkleiderbuch (Abbildung und Beschreibung der Hof-Livreen) des Herzogs Wilhelm IV. und Albrecht V. 1508-1551 - BSB Cgm 1951, München 16. Jh.
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb000
Hofkleiderbuch (Abbildung und Beschreibung der Hof-Livreen) des Herzogs Wilhelm IV. und Albrecht V. 1508-1551. Wappen mit Reimsprüchen des Holland. Abbildungen bayerischer Regenten - BSB Cgm 1952, München 16. Jh.
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb000
Heraldry book, 18th century copy of the 1560 original. Its got the shield, with the crest and the appropriate flag, so you can see how the shield design would translate to a fabric design.
Wappenbuch des churbayrischen Adels (Copie eines Originals von 1560), Band 1 - BSB Cgm 1508,
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/bsb0000
Teilnachlass von Philipp Apian (z.T. lateinisch) (1554-ca.1585), Ortsansichten, Alpenpanoramen, Holzschnitte - BSB Cgm 5379(3, [S.l.] Bayern 1554 - ca. 1585
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/bsb0000
And I'm sure that someone has a music geek friend who would love this
Songs of the Master school of Colmarer, from 1591, words and music notation to go with it!
Lieder der Colmarer Meisterschule - BSB Cgm 4999, [S.l.] 1591
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/bsb0000
I found the last two via this listing of all the Handschriften by century
- Mood:
busy
So, I've been doing some research into the clothing found in fechtbuch and ran across this wrestling manual which has some great views of men's clothing, but most specifically the same outfits from many different angles and positions. Makes it an interesting study for recreation since you can see how the body can move in the clothes.
Fabien von Auerswald, 1539, "Ringer kunst : fünff und achtzig stücke"
More Fechtbuchen here
http://www.aemma.org/onlineResources/li brary_16c_body.htm
http://www.thearma.org/manuals.htm
Fabien von Auerswald, 1539, "Ringer kunst : fünff und achtzig stücke"
More Fechtbuchen here
http://www.aemma.org/onlineResources/li
http://www.thearma.org/manuals.htm
- Mood:
curious
I love the use of stripes and plain material in this man's outfit. The sleeves definitly show some Italian influences
Verhör des Hl. Florian vor dem Statthalter Aquilinus
Dieses Bild: 000298
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei-Holz ; Flügelaltar ; Oberösterreich
Dokumentation: 1505 ; 1515 ; Linz ; Österreich ; Oberösterreich ; Schloßmuseum
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/ima ges/3000298.JPG
Verhör des Hl. Florian vor dem Statthalter Aquilinus
Dieses Bild: 000298
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei-Holz ; Flügelaltar ; Oberösterreich
Dokumentation: 1505 ; 1515 ; Linz ; Österreich ; Oberösterreich ; Schloßmuseum
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/ima
- Mood:
curious
Here's a pictoral example that clearly shows the difference between a Schecke and a Wams.
Geißelung der Hl. Katharina
Dieses Bild: 002586
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Tafel des Katharinaaltars ; Pacher Friedrich ; Südtirol
Dokumentation: 1480 ; 1480 ; Neustift ; Italien ; Südtirol ; Stiftsgalerie
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7004085.JPG
From left to right we have three figures that we can clearly see the waists on, a man in green, a man in red and a man in gold and black stripes.
The men in green and red are wearing Schecke, their doublets have a longer skirt on the bottom. The man in gold and black stripes is wearing a Wams, and this is still my favorite Wams picture ever due to the beautiful view we get of the construction in the back.
Here's another picture, this time of two men, one in a Kittel (green) and one in a Wams (red).
Geißelung Christi
Dieses Bild: 000895
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Meister des Fastentuchs ; Steiermark ; Mt:27:001-031 , Mk:15:001-020 , Jo:19:001-008
Dokumentation: 1460 ; 1470 ; St. Lambrecht ; Österreich ; Steiermark ; Stiftsgalerie
** Full picture **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7002800.JPG
** Detail shot of back of Wams, showing the lovely seams**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7002801.JPG
The Kittle appears to be a pretty basic tunic, its not a heavily engineered fighting garment like the Wams is. Check out the seam lines in both of the Wams pictures, there's some serious engineering and attention paid to how fabric has been shaped to the body and using the grainline to enhance performance.
Geißelung der Hl. Katharina
Dieses Bild: 002586
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Tafel des Katharinaaltars ; Pacher Friedrich ; Südtirol
Dokumentation: 1480 ; 1480 ; Neustift ; Italien ; Südtirol ; Stiftsgalerie
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
From left to right we have three figures that we can clearly see the waists on, a man in green, a man in red and a man in gold and black stripes.
The men in green and red are wearing Schecke, their doublets have a longer skirt on the bottom. The man in gold and black stripes is wearing a Wams, and this is still my favorite Wams picture ever due to the beautiful view we get of the construction in the back.
Here's another picture, this time of two men, one in a Kittel (green) and one in a Wams (red).
Geißelung Christi
Dieses Bild: 000895
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Meister des Fastentuchs ; Steiermark ; Mt:27:001-031 , Mk:15:001-020 , Jo:19:001-008
Dokumentation: 1460 ; 1470 ; St. Lambrecht ; Österreich ; Steiermark ; Stiftsgalerie
** Full picture **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
** Detail shot of back of Wams, showing the lovely seams**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
The Kittle appears to be a pretty basic tunic, its not a heavily engineered fighting garment like the Wams is. Check out the seam lines in both of the Wams pictures, there's some serious engineering and attention paid to how fabric has been shaped to the body and using the grainline to enhance performance.
- Mood:
curious
Focus of Search: Looking for images of men fighting or in action poses wearing fighting clothing similar to fighting clothes as seen in the 1459 fighting manual by Talhoffer, specific image reference kamp0224.jpg, URL http://img.kb.dk/ha/manus/th290/kamp022 4.jpg posted by
penguininarmor
The Schecke is a doublet like a Wams but one that either had a longer fuller skirt that covers the join between the hosen (beinling), or is just like the doublet found in the Talhoffer manuscript where the hosen ties onto the bottom of the Schecke. Wams is a better word to use for searching as the quality of search results is better than searching on Schecke. One gets more solider images with Wams that show fighting clothing and not a lot of other kinds of clothing, as a Wams is definitly fighting wear and a Schecke isn't necessarily so.
I did several searches, so I will break up the results by the keyword that they were found under.
Source: RealOnline
Keyword: Wams
Timeline: 1425-1475
These two images depict clothing that is very close to the fighting clothing found in the Talhoffer manuscript. They were found under the keyword Wams, but they are both Schecke
Kreuztragung Christi
Dieses Bild: 000719
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Tafelbild ; Meister von Laufen ; Salzburg
Dokumentation: 1445 ; 1450 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Galerie ; IN 4918
*Detail shot of join between hose and doublet in the back, showing gap at top even though all ties are in place. Hose has sturrip feet and same sort of waist line as in manuscript**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7001167.JPG
** Full picture for context **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7001163.JPG
Enthauptung des Hl. Leodegar
Dieses Bild: 005082
Kunstwerk: Buchmalerei ; Legenda Aurea ; Initiale L , Miniatur ; Hofwerkstatt Friedrichs III. ; Wien
Dokumentation: 1446 ; 1446 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. 326 ; fol. 212v
** Nice view from the front. Picture description says that the soldier is wearing a pink Schecke with a blue Wams over it, and blue hosen (Beinling). No gapping showing, but its not an action shot that would put stress on the seams and cause seperation between the schecke and the hosen**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7006883.JPG
These two a slightly later style of doublet (wams). The doublet has a shorter skirt and the hosen comes up higher
Source: RealOnline
Keyword: Bruech
Timeline: 1425-1475
Geißelung Christi
Dieses Bild: 000895
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Meister des Fastentuchs ; Steiermark ; Mt:27:001-031 , Mk:15:001-020 , Jo:19:001-008
Dokumentation: 1460 ; 1470 ; St. Lambrecht ; Österreich ; Steiermark ; Stiftsgalerie
** No gap, but nice view of back seam lines and fastening between doublet and hosen**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7002801.JPG
Enthauptung des Hl. Vitus
Dieses Bild: 001272
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Kärnten
Dokumentation: 1460 ; 1470 ; Klagenfurt ; Österreich ; Kärnten ; Landesmuseum ; IN 27b
** Interesting bi-color doublet, hose does not appear to be tied to back of doublet, but looks to stand out from it slightly**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7001946.JPG
This shorter doublet style doesn't seem to have stopped the gaposis problem, it seems to have made it worse in some instances. All of these pictures show their underwear
Enthauptung des Hl. Georg
Dieses Bild: 004674
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Herlin Friedrich ; süddeutsch
Dokumentation: 1462 ; 1462 ; Nördlingen ; Deutschland ; Stadtmuseum
** Tied in back, but still there's a gap between the hosen and the wams. Plus you can see the seam lines in the hosen**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7006310.JPG
Dornenkrönung Christi
Dieses Bild: 000938
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Niederösterreich ; Mt:27:028-030 , Mk:15:017-019 , Jo:19:002-008
Dokumentation: 1469 ; 1469 ; Güssing ; Österreich ; Burgenland ; Schloß Draskovich ; ja
** Gaping in the back **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7000823.JPG
Klauenmartyrium des Hl. Georg
Dieses Bild: 001798
Kunstwerk: Wandmalerei ; Langhausfresko ; Thomas von Villach ; Kärnten
Dokumentation: 1460 ; 1470 ; Gerlamoos ; Österreich ; Kärnten ; Filialkirche St. Georg
** Red wams and beinling in bottom right corner, showing gapping in the back. **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7003722.JPG
Hl. Georg erhält die Giftschale
Dieses Bild: 001799
Kunstwerk: Wandmalerei ; Langhausfresko ; Thomas von Villach ; Kärnten
Dokumentation: 1460 ; 1470 ; Gerlamoos ; Österreich ; Kärnten ; Filialkirche St. Georg
** Red wams and beinling in middle of picture, with gap at the upper outside thighs **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7003723.JPG
Apollonius von Tyrland
Strangwilio und Dionisiades werden gesteinigt - Illustration zu V 17187-17197
Dieses Bild: 003184
Kunstwerk: Buchmalerei , Federzeichnung laviert ; Heinrich von Neustadt. Apollonius von Tyrland ; Miniatur ; Wien
Dokumentation: 1467 ; 1467 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. 2886 ; fol. 108v
** Fellow in front left seems to have lost his hose down around his ankles. Man in front right seems to have the same gap in back of doublet and hose as seen in other pictures. Note too the garments laying on the ground. To the left it looks to be a half cape, on the right it looks like a man's shirt **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/3003184.JPG
The Schecke is a doublet like a Wams but one that either had a longer fuller skirt that covers the join between the hosen (beinling), or is just like the doublet found in the Talhoffer manuscript where the hosen ties onto the bottom of the Schecke. Wams is a better word to use for searching as the quality of search results is better than searching on Schecke. One gets more solider images with Wams that show fighting clothing and not a lot of other kinds of clothing, as a Wams is definitly fighting wear and a Schecke isn't necessarily so.
I did several searches, so I will break up the results by the keyword that they were found under.
Source: RealOnline
Keyword: Wams
Timeline: 1425-1475
These two images depict clothing that is very close to the fighting clothing found in the Talhoffer manuscript. They were found under the keyword Wams, but they are both Schecke
Kreuztragung Christi
Dieses Bild: 000719
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Tafelbild ; Meister von Laufen ; Salzburg
Dokumentation: 1445 ; 1450 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Galerie ; IN 4918
*Detail shot of join between hose and doublet in the back, showing gap at top even though all ties are in place. Hose has sturrip feet and same sort of waist line as in manuscript**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
** Full picture for context **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Enthauptung des Hl. Leodegar
Dieses Bild: 005082
Kunstwerk: Buchmalerei ; Legenda Aurea ; Initiale L , Miniatur ; Hofwerkstatt Friedrichs III. ; Wien
Dokumentation: 1446 ; 1446 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. 326 ; fol. 212v
** Nice view from the front. Picture description says that the soldier is wearing a pink Schecke with a blue Wams over it, and blue hosen (Beinling). No gapping showing, but its not an action shot that would put stress on the seams and cause seperation between the schecke and the hosen**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
These two a slightly later style of doublet (wams). The doublet has a shorter skirt and the hosen comes up higher
Source: RealOnline
Keyword: Bruech
Timeline: 1425-1475
Geißelung Christi
Dieses Bild: 000895
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Meister des Fastentuchs ; Steiermark ; Mt:27:001-031 , Mk:15:001-020 , Jo:19:001-008
Dokumentation: 1460 ; 1470 ; St. Lambrecht ; Österreich ; Steiermark ; Stiftsgalerie
** No gap, but nice view of back seam lines and fastening between doublet and hosen**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Enthauptung des Hl. Vitus
Dieses Bild: 001272
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Kärnten
Dokumentation: 1460 ; 1470 ; Klagenfurt ; Österreich ; Kärnten ; Landesmuseum ; IN 27b
** Interesting bi-color doublet, hose does not appear to be tied to back of doublet, but looks to stand out from it slightly**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
This shorter doublet style doesn't seem to have stopped the gaposis problem, it seems to have made it worse in some instances. All of these pictures show their underwear
Enthauptung des Hl. Georg
Dieses Bild: 004674
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Herlin Friedrich ; süddeutsch
Dokumentation: 1462 ; 1462 ; Nördlingen ; Deutschland ; Stadtmuseum
** Tied in back, but still there's a gap between the hosen and the wams. Plus you can see the seam lines in the hosen**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Dornenkrönung Christi
Dieses Bild: 000938
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Niederösterreich ; Mt:27:028-030 , Mk:15:017-019 , Jo:19:002-008
Dokumentation: 1469 ; 1469 ; Güssing ; Österreich ; Burgenland ; Schloß Draskovich ; ja
** Gaping in the back **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Klauenmartyrium des Hl. Georg
Dieses Bild: 001798
Kunstwerk: Wandmalerei ; Langhausfresko ; Thomas von Villach ; Kärnten
Dokumentation: 1460 ; 1470 ; Gerlamoos ; Österreich ; Kärnten ; Filialkirche St. Georg
** Red wams and beinling in bottom right corner, showing gapping in the back. **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Hl. Georg erhält die Giftschale
Dieses Bild: 001799
Kunstwerk: Wandmalerei ; Langhausfresko ; Thomas von Villach ; Kärnten
Dokumentation: 1460 ; 1470 ; Gerlamoos ; Österreich ; Kärnten ; Filialkirche St. Georg
** Red wams and beinling in middle of picture, with gap at the upper outside thighs **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Apollonius von Tyrland
Strangwilio und Dionisiades werden gesteinigt - Illustration zu V 17187-17197
Dieses Bild: 003184
Kunstwerk: Buchmalerei , Federzeichnung laviert ; Heinrich von Neustadt. Apollonius von Tyrland ; Miniatur ; Wien
Dokumentation: 1467 ; 1467 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. 2886 ; fol. 108v
** Fellow in front left seems to have lost his hose down around his ankles. Man in front right seems to have the same gap in back of doublet and hose as seen in other pictures. Note too the garments laying on the ground. To the left it looks to be a half cape, on the right it looks like a man's shirt **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
- Mood:
contemplative
These are just images that show the briefs in detail. There are others that aren't online that show them off of someones body so you can see how to make one. But I don't have those scanned in yet.
Source: RealOnline http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/realonlin e/
Catalog: Kleidung
Keyword: Bruech
Timeline: 1400-1550
Kreuzigung Christi
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Oberösterreich ; Mt:27:033-036 , Mk:15:022-041 , Lk:23:033-049 , Joh:19:016-030
Dokumentation: 1484 ; 1484 ; St. Florian ; Österreich ; Oberösterreich ; Stiftssammlung
** Blue underwear **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7000137.JPG
Kreuzigung Christi
Kunstwerk: Buchmalerei ; Gebetbuch ; Miniatur ; Nordtirol ; Mt:27:033-036 , Mk:15:022-041 , Lk:23:033-049 , Joh:19:016-030
Dokumentation: 1505 ; 1505 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. s. n. 3257 ; fol. 29v
Anmerkungen:
** Colored men's underwear and good view of the ties **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7009165.JPG
Kreuzigung Christi
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Kärnten ; Mt:27:033-036 , Mk:15:022-041 , Lk:23:033-049 , Joh:19:016-030
Dokumentation: 1525 ; 1535 ; Klagenfurt ; Österreich ; Kärnten ; Diözesanmuseum ; IN 744
Anmerkungen: 905x705 ; Hoch-St. Paul ; Katalog Kärntner Kunst des Mittelalters, Wien 1970, S. 109
** White underwear **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7001862.JPG
Linker Schächer
Kunstwerk: Original , Holzskulptur ; Holzskulptur ; Mt:27:033-036 , Mk:15:022-041 , Lk:23:033-049 , Joh:19:016-030
Dokumentation: 1495 ; 1505 ; Bregenz ; Österreich ; Vorarlberg ; Vorarlberger Landesmuseum
Anmerkungen: Bregenz, Mehrerau
** clearly shows that the ties are just on one side **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/3005701.JPG
Kettenhemdmartyrium des Hl. Georg
Dieses Bild: 000567
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Meister der Laufener Georgslegende ; Salzburg
Dokumentation: 1465 ; 1470 ; Laufen ; Deutschland ; Bayern ; Pfarrhof
Anmerkungen: 640x540 ; Laufen ; Kat. Salzburg 1972: S. 113f.
** Detail shot of tie, blue underwear**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7001514.JPG
Source: RealOnline http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/realonlin
Catalog: Kleidung
Keyword: Bruech
Timeline: 1400-1550
Kreuzigung Christi
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Oberösterreich ; Mt:27:033-036 , Mk:15:022-041 , Lk:23:033-049 , Joh:19:016-030
Dokumentation: 1484 ; 1484 ; St. Florian ; Österreich ; Oberösterreich ; Stiftssammlung
** Blue underwear **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Kreuzigung Christi
Kunstwerk: Buchmalerei ; Gebetbuch ; Miniatur ; Nordtirol ; Mt:27:033-036 , Mk:15:022-041 , Lk:23:033-049 , Joh:19:016-030
Dokumentation: 1505 ; 1505 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. s. n. 3257 ; fol. 29v
Anmerkungen:
** Colored men's underwear and good view of the ties **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Kreuzigung Christi
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Kärnten ; Mt:27:033-036 , Mk:15:022-041 , Lk:23:033-049 , Joh:19:016-030
Dokumentation: 1525 ; 1535 ; Klagenfurt ; Österreich ; Kärnten ; Diözesanmuseum ; IN 744
Anmerkungen: 905x705 ; Hoch-St. Paul ; Katalog Kärntner Kunst des Mittelalters, Wien 1970, S. 109
** White underwear **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Linker Schächer
Kunstwerk: Original , Holzskulptur ; Holzskulptur ; Mt:27:033-036 , Mk:15:022-041 , Lk:23:033-049 , Joh:19:016-030
Dokumentation: 1495 ; 1505 ; Bregenz ; Österreich ; Vorarlberg ; Vorarlberger Landesmuseum
Anmerkungen: Bregenz, Mehrerau
** clearly shows that the ties are just on one side **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Kettenhemdmartyrium des Hl. Georg
Dieses Bild: 000567
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Meister der Laufener Georgslegende ; Salzburg
Dokumentation: 1465 ; 1470 ; Laufen ; Deutschland ; Bayern ; Pfarrhof
Anmerkungen: 640x540 ; Laufen ; Kat. Salzburg 1972: S. 113f.
** Detail shot of tie, blue underwear**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
- Mood:
accomplished
Some nice pictures of men's underwear, hose and points.
Source: RealOnline http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/realonlin e/
Catalog: Kleidung
Keyword: Bruech
Timeline: 1300-1400
Kreuzigung Christi
Dieses Bild: 000658A
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Wölffel von Neumarkt ; Steiermark ; Mt:27:033-036 , Mk:15:022-041 , Lk:23:033-049 , Joh:19:016-030
Dokumentation: 1360 ; 1370 ; Graz ; Österreich ; Steiermark ; Landesmuseum Joanneum ; IN 302
** View of drawstring on braies **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7000716.JPG
Gefangennahme Christi
Dieses Bild: 003594
Kunstwerk: Wandmalerei ; Langhausfresko Fragment ; Meister der Virgilius-Legende am Virgl ; Südtirol ; Mt:26:047-056 , Mk:14:043-052 , Lk:22:047-053 , Jo:18:001-011
Dokumentation: 1395 ; 1400 ; Sarnthein ; Italien ; Südtirol ; St. Cyprian
** Back view of hose and braies**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7005356.JPG
Schamgar tötet seine Feinde
Dieses Bild: 007192
Kunstwerk: Federzeichnung laviert ; Speculum Humanae Salvationis ; Miniatur ; Oberösterreich
Dokumentation: 1350 ; 1400 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. s. n. 2612 ; fol. 20r
** Nice view up tunic of the unjoined hose and the braies **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7009018.JPG
David tötet den Bären
Dieses Bild: 007184A
Kunstwerk: Federzeichnung laviert ; Speculum Humanae Salvationis ; Miniatur ; Oberösterreich
Dokumentation: 1350 ; 1400 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. s. n. 2612 ; fol. 16r
** Another action shot up the tunic **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7009010.JPG
Trunkenheit Noachs
Dieses Bild: 007196
Kunstwerk: Federzeichnung laviert ; Speculum Humanae Salvationis ; Miniatur ; Oberösterreich ; Gn:09:018-023
Dokumentation: 1350 ; 1400 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. s. n. 2612 ; fol. 22r
** A drunken Noah and his blue hose pointed to his braies **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7009022.JPG
Antipater vor Cäsar
Dieses Bild: 007235A
Kunstwerk: Federzeichnung koloriert ; Speculum Humanae Salvationis ; Miniatur ; Oberösterreich
Dokumentation: 1350 ; 1400 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. s. n. 2612 ; fol. 41v
** Nice clear view of braies and hose, red this time **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7009061.JPG
Kreuztragung Christi
Dieses Bild: 012508
Kunstwerk: Wandmalerei ; Chorwandfresko Fragment ; Werkstatt des Meisters des Presbyteriums von Ochtiná ; Slowakei
Dokumentation: 1380 ; 1390 ; Kocelovce ; Slowakei ; Evangelische Kirche
** Good view of points on the braies to attach hose **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7013313.JPG
Source: RealOnline http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/realonlin
Catalog: Kleidung
Keyword: Bruech
Timeline: 1300-1400
Kreuzigung Christi
Dieses Bild: 000658A
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Flügelaltar ; Wölffel von Neumarkt ; Steiermark ; Mt:27:033-036 , Mk:15:022-041 , Lk:23:033-049 , Joh:19:016-030
Dokumentation: 1360 ; 1370 ; Graz ; Österreich ; Steiermark ; Landesmuseum Joanneum ; IN 302
** View of drawstring on braies **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Gefangennahme Christi
Dieses Bild: 003594
Kunstwerk: Wandmalerei ; Langhausfresko Fragment ; Meister der Virgilius-Legende am Virgl ; Südtirol ; Mt:26:047-056 , Mk:14:043-052 , Lk:22:047-053 , Jo:18:001-011
Dokumentation: 1395 ; 1400 ; Sarnthein ; Italien ; Südtirol ; St. Cyprian
** Back view of hose and braies**
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Schamgar tötet seine Feinde
Dieses Bild: 007192
Kunstwerk: Federzeichnung laviert ; Speculum Humanae Salvationis ; Miniatur ; Oberösterreich
Dokumentation: 1350 ; 1400 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. s. n. 2612 ; fol. 20r
** Nice view up tunic of the unjoined hose and the braies **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
David tötet den Bären
Dieses Bild: 007184A
Kunstwerk: Federzeichnung laviert ; Speculum Humanae Salvationis ; Miniatur ; Oberösterreich
Dokumentation: 1350 ; 1400 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. s. n. 2612 ; fol. 16r
** Another action shot up the tunic **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Trunkenheit Noachs
Dieses Bild: 007196
Kunstwerk: Federzeichnung laviert ; Speculum Humanae Salvationis ; Miniatur ; Oberösterreich ; Gn:09:018-023
Dokumentation: 1350 ; 1400 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. s. n. 2612 ; fol. 22r
** A drunken Noah and his blue hose pointed to his braies **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Antipater vor Cäsar
Dieses Bild: 007235A
Kunstwerk: Federzeichnung koloriert ; Speculum Humanae Salvationis ; Miniatur ; Oberösterreich
Dokumentation: 1350 ; 1400 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Österreichische Nationalbibliothek ; cod. s. n. 2612 ; fol. 41v
** Nice clear view of braies and hose, red this time **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
Kreuztragung Christi
Dieses Bild: 012508
Kunstwerk: Wandmalerei ; Chorwandfresko Fragment ; Werkstatt des Meisters des Presbyteriums von Ochtiná ; Slowakei
Dokumentation: 1380 ; 1390 ; Kocelovce ; Slowakei ; Evangelische Kirche
** Good view of points on the braies to attach hose **
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
- Mood:
bored
I've been looking for a color picture of this doublet ever since I saw it in Textile Conservation and Research, I had never guessed that it was black! Today someone posted a link to this page on the GermanRenCostume list.
Grabgewand um 1570 von Friedrich Graf Stubenberg (n.1543-1575)
http://www.museum-joanneum.steiermark.a t/cms/beitrag/10124466/5226373/
Grabgewand um 1570 von Friedrich Graf Stubenberg (n.1543-1575)
http://www.museum-joanneum.steiermark.a
- Mood:
chipper
This is a very interesting use of striped fabric in men's cloting.
In German clothing 1400-1600, stripes are very hard to find. There are several examples of striped skirts and a couple of striped headdresses, but most of the garments that have stripes in them are pieced, not made from fabric woven in stripes.
Here is an interesting example where the fabric is definitly striped, and you can see the grain lines of the pattern pieces, and they are very interesting too! The grain lines don't run the way I thought they would on this typical men's doublet style from 1480's. For instance, check out the grain on the sleeves, it doesn't run lengthwise, but widthwise.
Although the painting is from the South Tyrol, this style general is Burgundian and was endemic throught the area and down into Italy.
Geißelung der Hl. Katharina (Flogging of St. Katharina)
Dieses Bild: 002586
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Tafel des Katharinaaltars ; Pacher Friedrich ; Südtirol
Dokumentation: 1480 ; 1480 ; Neustift ; Italien ; Südtirol ; Stiftsgalerie
Anmerkungen: 965x778 ; Neustift
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im ages/7004085.JPG
In German clothing 1400-1600, stripes are very hard to find. There are several examples of striped skirts and a couple of striped headdresses, but most of the garments that have stripes in them are pieced, not made from fabric woven in stripes.
Here is an interesting example where the fabric is definitly striped, and you can see the grain lines of the pattern pieces, and they are very interesting too! The grain lines don't run the way I thought they would on this typical men's doublet style from 1480's. For instance, check out the grain on the sleeves, it doesn't run lengthwise, but widthwise.
Although the painting is from the South Tyrol, this style general is Burgundian and was endemic throught the area and down into Italy.
Geißelung der Hl. Katharina (Flogging of St. Katharina)
Dieses Bild: 002586
Kunstwerk: Tafelmalerei ; Tafel des Katharinaaltars ; Pacher Friedrich ; Südtirol
Dokumentation: 1480 ; 1480 ; Neustift ; Italien ; Südtirol ; Stiftsgalerie
Anmerkungen: 965x778 ; Neustift
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/im
- Mood:
amused
