GNM macrame stag hat, now! In Full Color!

I promised Cherylyn that I'd upload these as soon as I got back to the US, but ended up have a few moments with a good connection to upload them before that.  They've been uploaded at high-def, so you can zoom in and see the details.

For those not in the know about this crazy hat, its made from undyed linen yarn in a macrame technque and the stag is painted in a shiney red paint. It dates to the 16th c and was probably worn by a German nobleman. 

Have fun folks!

GNM 16th c Stag Hat Inv Nr. W 3248

Post Costume College shopping

 Home from Costume College and I am filled with ideas for all the costumes that I want to make this next year. 30's -50's day wear, a Teens dress, and of course a Gala Ball gown. I need to post an event recap, but that will have to happen later.

I promissed folks that I'd post my jewelry crack seller links, so here they are!
Here's the link to the seller, lots of super lovely jewelry and a few pieces in the same style as my necklace but in different colors.

Other places I looked at, that had similarly styled pieces,

So I've been shopping on Utsav, and oh! OH! I'm sorry, but there are just too many Sarees!

These four are currently rocking my world, the left two are the same design but different colors (white shows the pallau design the best), the black I could see as an asymettrical wrap gown from 1908-09. Not sure about the saree to the far right, maybe Teens? Its gorgeous and deserves to be something fab.
If you want to peruse those I've found so far, you can check out my Utsav wishlist, there's only $8000 dollars worth of Sarees on there!
Collapse )

German Writs and Proclaimations

I know its been a while since I posted a research post,  but this week I got an email asking for information or links to German or Swiss land grants, writs, etc. and I thought that should post it here in case other people were in search of the same thing!

Original Documents:
The Amorial image from the Grant of arms to Hans, Sebastian and Georg von Aachen.

Deed to Daniel Braumann, Incipit: Wir Burgermeister Schoffen und Rath der Statt Francffurt

Deed by Peter Semler and Katherena Offenbach, with autograph subscription by the latter

Tax Proclamation

Deed by Clas Stritter of Gemunde, transferring property to Hanns Haernig of Gemunde

Formular Books
Here are some texts on the topics, first up are two formular books, which give the proper format for various types of letters and documents.

Formular allerlei Schrifften, Instrumenten, und Brieffe, So in hohen Cantzleyen der Keyser, Fürsten und Herren Höfe, Auch anderer Stände und Stätt, Schreibereyen und Consistorien gefertigt und gestellet werden, Zu sampt den gebür und gewönlichen Titel Formen, Einem jeden seiner Geburt, Ampts, Stadt, und wesens, rechtmessig Titel, Ehrwort und Ehrerbietung, zustellen und zugeben ..., Franckfurt am Meyn 1575 [VD16 F 1885]

A scribal formula book, just in case you ever wanted to write a formal letter to a Nurnberg Burgher, you could look up the proper form of address for them.
The opening pages has a nice picture of a scribal shop with scribes at work at their desks.

Fruck, Ludwig: Rhetoric und Teutsch Formular in allen Gerichts Händlen, Franckfurt a. M. 1530 [VD16 F 3149]

A forumla book for notaries and scribes, Frankfurt am Main, 1530. The frontispiece has a really great little picture of various scribal tools, including a pen case and inkwell, pens and a pen knife, ruler, string, scissors, packets of something and what looks like a large toothed comb (perhaps used for making lines on paper?), not really sure what the various lumps and other things are.

Scribal Pattern Books
Here are several scribal pattern books for help with the proper scripts to use.

Scribal pattern book of Gregorius Bock, MS 439. Swabia, ca. 1510-1517
Go here: Search for MS 439, chose Scribal pattern book. There is, unfortunately, no direct link to the manuscript

Here is the descriptive catalog entry for the manuscript. This includes which scripts are used on which pages, this information is not included in the manuscript. The scripts run from basic book hands, bastards, decorative capitals, color work, its really quite inspiring!

Late Gothic Pattern Book, more cool calligraphy and illumination sample book Urach um 1494 Very, very pretty!

Libro di M. Giovambattista Palatino cittadino romano : nelqual s'insegna à scriuer ogni sorte lettera, antica & moderna, di qualun que natione, con le sue regole, & misure, & essempi : et con vn breve et vtil discorso de le cifre (1550)
An Italian book from 1545, with a lovely selection of hands, the  German hands are on p. 63.

(no subject)

A question came up on the GermanRen list about bead work and spangles, and I'm posting my answer here as well.

Do you mean, there are some dresses with beads, and other dresses with spangles, are there some dresses with both?
Good question...

Cranach's portrait of Anna Cuspinian has spangles, (flinden)
on the bottom of her brustfleck, which looks to be cloth of gold with silk embroidery. Click through to the large image to see the detail
This lady, a donor at the bottom of a devotional painting, RealOnline 001154, has tons of spangles on her headdress, but no pearls.
Cranach's portrait of this lady has tons of pearls, but can't tell about the spangles, although there does look to be gold thread outlining some of the pearl clusters

There are both pearls and spangles in this necklace from Hungary Choker necklace, gold plated over silver and pearl Halskrause, Bild: 008671 Halskrause des Matthias Corvinus(?) 1500 ; 1550 ;

Pre-1500, I've found a couple of exant examples of beadwork (not pearls) combined with spangles
Bordüre 1401/1500?, Wienhausen, Kloster Wienhausen — Aufnahme-Nr. LAC 7.091/6
Bordüre 1401/1500?, Wienhausen, Kloster Wienhausen — Aufnahme-Nr. LAC 7.091/5
Bordüre 1401/1500?, Wienhausen, Kloster Wienhausen — Aufnahme-Nr. LAC 7.091/4

Post 1600, there are a few examples of spangles and gold work with pearls
This hunters pouch from early 1600's has beads and a few spangles, this one, also from the early 1600's, has gold work and beads
These Pantoffeln, velvet house shoes, 1600-1620 are embroidered with silver and have gold spangles

These were the examples I was able to find, and they don't really settle the question in my mind. Gold work with pearls and spangles seems like a logical thing to do,  just not sure if no examples survive, or they would have thought that it was overkill and tasteless, or if there was a sumptuary law against it. 

And a couple examples of appliquéd heraldic emblems that are just too cool not to post as well

Heraldische Stickerei: Feuerstrahl und Feuerstein mit Funken, Schweiz?, 1401/1500, Bern, Bernisches Historisches Museum — Aufnahme-Nr. C 655.142;; (color);

Heroldsrock, 1501/1600, München, Bayerisches Nationalmuseum — Aufnahme-Nr. 114.791;

En La Espana Medieval

 I'm presuming that my Spanish affectionado friends already KNOW about this publication, but just in case....

EN LA ESPAñA MEDIEVAL - a medieval history magazine devoted to Spain, which also happens to have most of its articles online for free.

This one looked especially good from 2009's issue

Mujeres de mercaderes, Mujeres Mercaderes. Testimonios de iniciativas femeninas en el ámbito comercial a finales del siglo XV - Women of Merchants and Merchant Women. Evidence of Women’s Commercial Initiatives at the end of the Fifteenth Century

Click on the tab Por Titulio at the top to see the articles of all the past issues.

The Saxon Court Pedigree by Lucas Cranach, 1500-1546

{Edited to fix link rot, July 10, 2012}
If you were ever curious about what styles were worn at the Saxon court before the "Princess dress" came into fashion, (which might give clues as to the construction) well now we've got some more pieces in the puzzle.

Lucas Cranach painted a book of the people at the Saxon Court, some of them in quite informal poses and appearing to be in the middle of conversations. Each person depicted has their name, a short verse and their coat of arms down below, some have the coat of arms of the city that they are from or have the name of their town in the rhyme above their heads.

Das Sächsische Stammbuch - Mscr.Dresd.R.3 - The Saxon Pedigree
A collection of portraits of Saxon princes, with rhyming text, from the period
1500 - 1546

This one, is a gown in a transitional style, part Master of the housebook dress with the neck chains and part Saxon court style with the cutout front, brustuch and lacings. 

This picture of two women,  makes me wonder if we're seeing the same style of dress, but the lady on the left is pregnant, and the lady on the left isn't. But either way, you've got to love the green Zopfe and the red and gold striped Haube on the other.

Cranach did us all a favor by painting most of the portraits in 3/4 view,  and some of them from the back,  and side, (this is crucial to understanding how the dress might be constructed, and how it should fit from all angles). 

There are also women in multi-parti dress, which may be heraldic dress, 108, 149, 158.

In the back, there are flip pages, where first you see the person as an adult, then you open the flip, and you see them as a child.   And then there are these three young ladies, in beautiful silk gowns that look to be pink/blue shot silk taffeta.

There are plenty of other lovely pictures (200+ total), including lots of men's clothes too, these were just the ones that caught my eye tonight.

Drindl tutorial

I ran across this drindl dress diary, and I found it fascinating that she uses a "hansel" or a piece of checkered fabric to space her pleats on the skirt and apron. Also, braiding the ends of the cartridge pleat threads and leaving wide seam allowances in the bodice make this a piece of clothing that can be easily altered in the future.

A nice example of clothing, not costume

Pennsic Meme

1.. Where are you camping?
Barony of Marinus (E05 I think, don't quote me on it)

2. When are you arriving?
Monday August 2nd, leaving Thursday the 12th.

3. What cool stuff are you doing?
Shopping, Socializing, Hanging out at the playground with Henry, Sewing, Cooking, etc.  I might make it to a few classes, and I'd like to hangout at Artisan's row and work on a few headdresses, but we'll see how things work out.

The 1503 German ball is definitely on my list of things to go to, and I foresee lots of exploratory walks with Henry around the grounds. Maybe we'll watch a battle or two.  

4. What's your SCA name?
Lady Sophia Kress

Double hole rigid heddle and Single hole ridid heddle

Stashing this away for later(and sharing it too), but there are some awesome possibilities with this technique!

Weavezine - Scandanavian Tape looms with double hole rigid heddles

Examples of tapes sewn together to make a cushion

Diagrams and examples of heddles Hildegund Hergenhan's website
Anneliese Bläse's website, showing the difference in look between tablet woven and patterned rigid heddle bands

A blog post with some good book recommendations and tools

Examples of single hole rigid heddle, different threading patterns
Checkerboard threading and patterns

Gallery of example bands